Tuesday, July 9, 2013

Festivales

 New year -Enkutatash

The Ethiopian New Year falls in September at the end of the big rains. The sun comes out to shine all day long creating an atmosphere of dazzling clarity and air. The highland turn to gold as the Maskal daisies burst out in their entire splendor. Ethiopia children; clad in brand new clothes and dance through the village giving bouquets of flowers and painted pictures to each household. September 11 is both New Year’s day and Feast of St John the Baptist. The day is called Enkutatash meaning the gift of jewels. When the famous Queen of Sheba returned from her expensive jaunt to visit king Solomon in Jerusalem, her chiefs welcomed her back by replenishing her treasury with enku or jewels. The spring festival has been celebrated since these early times and as the rains come to their abrupt end dancing and singing can be heard at every village in the green countryside. After dark on New Year’s Eve people light fires outside their houses. The main religious celebration takes place at the 14th century Kostete Yohannes church in the city of Gaynt within the Gondar Region. Three day of payers, pasalms and hymns, sermons, and massive colorful processions mark the advent of the New Year. Closer to Addis ababa the Raguel Church, on top of Entoto mountain north of the city has the largest and spectacular religious celebration. But Enkutatash is not exclusively a religious celebration and the little girls singing and dancing in pretty new addresses among the flowers in the fields convey the message of spring time and renewed life. Today’s Enkutatash is also the season for exchanging formal New Year greetings cards among urban sophisticated in lieu of the traditional bouquet of flowers.

Timkat/Feast of Epiphany/

This is the greatest festival of the year, falling on 19 January/”Tere 11”, just two weeks after the Ethiopian Christmas. It is actually a three day affair, beginning on the Eve of Timkat with dramatic and colorful processions. The following morning, the great day itself, Christ baptism in the Jordan River by John the Baptist is commemorated. The third day is devoted to the Feast of St.Micheal, the archangel, one of Ethiopia’s most popular saints.

Since October and the end of the rains the country has been drying up steadily. The sun blaze down from a clear blue sky and the Festival of Timkat always takes place in glorious weather. Enormous effort is put into the occasion. food are brewed, special bread is baked, and the fat tailed African sheep are fattened for slaughter. Gifts are prepared for the children and new clothes purchased or old clothes mended and laundered. Everyone- men , women and children appears resplendent for the three day celebration. Dressed in the  dazzling white of the traditional dress, the locals provide a zling white of the traditional dress, the locals provide a dramatic contrast to the jewel colors of the ceremonial velvets and satins of the priests’ robes and sequined velvet umbrellas. On the eve of 18 January, Ketera, the priest removes the Tabots from each church and bless the water of the pool or river where the next day’s celebration will takes place. It is the Tabot (symbolizing the Ark of the Covenant containing Ten Commandments) rather than the church building which is consecrated, and it is accorded extreme reverence. Not to be desecrated by the gaze of the layman, the engraved wooden  is carried under layers of rich cloth.
In Addis Ababa, many churches bring their Tabots to JanMeda (the horse racing course of imperial days) accompanied by priests bearing prayer sticks and sistra the ringing of bells and blowing of trumpets, and swinging bronze censors from which wisps of incense smoke escape into the evening air. The tabots rest in their special tents in the meadow, each hoisting a proud banner depicting the church’s saint in front.


The priests pray throughout the long cold night and mass are performed around 2:00 am. Huge crowds of people camp out eating and drinking by the light of flickering fires and touches. Towards dawn the patriarch dips a golden cross and extinguishes a burning consecrated candle in the water. Then he sprinkles water on the assembled congregation in commemoration of Christ’s baptism. Many of the more fervent leap fully dressed into the water to renew their vows. Following the baptism the tabots start back to their respective churches, while feasting, singing and dancing continue at JanMeda. The procession winds through town again as the horsemen cavort alongside; their mounts handsomely decorated with red tassels, embroidered saddle cloths, and silver bridles. The elders march solemnly accompanied by signing, leaping priests and young men, rites of Old Testament.

Historical Place

 Axum

Axum the site of Ethiopia’s most ancient city, today slum-bears on blissfully unaware of its glorious past. The small town’s 16th century Cathedral of St Mary of Zion is built on the site of a much dating from the fourth century AD. Only a platform and the wide stone steps remain from the earlier structure. The cathedral is a repository of crowns belonging to some Ethiopian’s former emperors. According to legend, it also houses the original Ark of the Covenant- thus making St.Mary’s the holiest sanctuary in Ethiopia
The most striking relics of Axum, however, are its obelisks or stelae. They are made from single blocks of granite carved to represent multi story buildings. The tallest, now fallen, once stood more than 33 meters high and numbered 13 storeys. The highest obelisk still standing is 10 storeys and 23 meters tall. The carving is deep and precise, showing the beams for each floor and the windows.
Other local historical sites included the graves of king Kale and King Gabrmeskel , the bath of Queen of Sheba and the ruis of the vast Royal Place over which, un-fortunately, the road to Gondar now passes. The market place has a variety of interesting curios and ancient coins.

Bahar Dar

Bahar Dar, on the southern shore of lake Tana, is a center for boating excursions to the lake’s islands and tissisat Falls the most spectacular waterfall on the blue Nile river. The nearby monastery of Dek Stefanos contains a priceless collection of icons, manuscripts and the mummified remains of the three Ethiopian emperors: yikuno amlak (1268-1283), Zara Yaqob (1434-1468) and Fasiladas(1632-1665). There are monasteries on 20 other islands and peninsulas along Lake Tana. The nearest to Bahar Dar are kebran Gabriel, which is forbidden to women, and Ura Kidanemereth, which contains an impressive treasury of ancient illuminated Bibles in the Ge’ez scripts. The building is decorated with a number of external and internal frescoes of religious significance.
Bahar Dar is a commercial center of considerable importance. The large USSR-built Polytechnic Institute and the Pedagogic Academy sponsored by UNESCO are located here.

Gondar

Gondar was once the capital of Ethiopia, its prominence beginning with the regn of Emperore Fasiladas in 1632 and ending with fall of Tewodros in 1868. The city’s unique imperial precinct contains a dozen castles built by various emperors during this 236 years period. Although the earliest of these castle was built by Fasiladas following the expulsion of the Portuguese, at first sight the  architecture seems to reflect Moorish-Europian influences. Closer scrutiny, however reveals interesting architectural features following in the Axumite tradition and s strong affinity with contemporary styles of building in south Arabia. Ras Beit, a place built in the 18th century as a private residence has been in continuous use since construction and now serve the local government offices. Ashort distance away is the Bath of fasiladas and the “House of Chickens”.
With easy reach of Gondar lies a monastery, the ruined place at Kusquam, and the church of Debre Berhan Sellassie with its unique murals. The town itself has a lively and interesting marketplace.

Harar

The ancient city of Harar remained a centre of religious fervor from the early days of the Islamic expansion until 1887, when the authority of the central government was restored by Emperor Menelik II. With its 99 mosques, Harar is considered to be Islam’s fourth most holy city.
Sir Richard Burton’s disguised visit to the city in 1855 nearly cost him his life. He found it more difficult to evade detection as a non-Muslim in Hara than he had during his journey to Mecca. The French poet Rimbaud also chose Harar as his city of exile from French intolerance.
The whole setting of medieval walls tightly embracing the ancient city, its rich and colourful marketplace, towering and majestic mountains, and refreshingly cool climate, infuses Harar with an air of excitement making it a memorable place to visit.

Lalibela

Lalibela, a medieval settlement in the region of welo, is the site of elven rock-hewn churches believed to have been built in the late 12th or early 13th century by King Lalibela. These remarkable edifices, which were carved inside and outside of solid rock, are often  ranked among the wonders of the world. Each building is architecturally unique, all are finely carved, and several are decorated with beautiful paintings that remain well preserved.

During the season of “big rains” from June to September, this important site is inaccessible. Even during the dry months, reaching Lalibela is no easy task. The best way to arrive is by air, followed by a 45 minute drive or three hour mule ride across the eight kilometers separating Lalibela from the airstrip. A visit to this ancient setting is particularly worthwhile during the colorful Ethiopia festivals.